Tighten UseCounterPageLoadMetricsObserverBrowserTest.RecordFeature

It's sometimes failing with use-after-free on line 78.
This changes
- Replace raw RenderFrameHost* with RenderFrameHostWrapper
- use HistoryGoBack
- use ASSERT on all navigations, there's no point continuing if they
  fail, it just makes confusing test output.
- enabled VLogging for back_forward_cache_impl so that we get logging
  of why eviction happened.

Bug: 1224355
Change-Id: Idc5964d874c384aec5f1d341accdbc59d05d7f06
Reviewed-on: https://chromium-review.googlesource.com/c/chromium/src/+/4193750
Auto-Submit: Fergal Daly <fergal@chromium.org>
Reviewed-by: Yue Ru Sun <yrsun@chromium.org>
Commit-Queue: Yoav Weiss <yoavweiss@chromium.org>
Reviewed-by: Yoav Weiss <yoavweiss@chromium.org>
Cr-Commit-Position: refs/heads/main@{#1097327}